Darwin via the class 3 West Ridge. Hi, Jeff; Thank you for your compliment of my photo. To become a member of the SPS, one must be a Sierra Club member and have climbed at least six peaks on the SPS List; it is not necessary that the peaks be Emblem peaks. Id get my chance eventually. We started at south lake and ended on north lake, backwards from most, and while Piute pass was a hard hike, i think ending on Piute and Humphrey's Basin was a great way to complete the trip. Florence Lake Store and Ferry. Our simple food choices were holding very well. Piute Creek to Evolution Creek, 3.5 miles Beyond Piute Creek the trail stays close to the river, working its way up the canyon. it has all the beauty you can think of, in fact you will get a beauty intake overdoz lol. GoPro video as I crossed the wooden bridge. By heading upstream on a use-trail for a quarter mile to a meadow, you will find a shallower ford. This trail really had a lot of history behind it, and I wondered just how many horses and people had travelled through here in the past. Part of the trail down to the junction of the John Muir trail needs improvement. Slept like a drunken sailor. Lake Thomas A. Edison Ferry: Lake Thomas A. Edison from the ferry: . But that suited me fine. Which didnt happen until I reached Piute Creek and the metal bridge that crossed it. There were a few sections that were mosquito-dense, but otherwise the bugs and critters were tolerable! No storms. At Muir Pass base, if the snow looks significant above, take the first stream crossing at the very bottom of Muir Pass because the stream only gets deeper going up. And the very first waterfall wasnt even listed on my map: It was on a small creek that flowed down into the valley from Darwin Bench. We descended down Muir Pass which seemed endless until camping near the Le Conte Ranger Station. Muir Pass snow is melting fast and maybe only 1.5 miles worth heading northbound and maybe 2 over towards Sapphire Lake. Mather Pass . 27, 28, 33 and 34, T. 15 N., R. 14 E., S. B. M., on the east slope of the Ivanpah range of mountains, in Mescal Mining District, 8 miles north of Cima. So we caught the 9:00am ferry across and bought a few things in the little store there. Get surefire solitude in McGee Canyon (south about .5 mile back). The North Lake-South Lake loop is the famous "Rainbow Trail" and includes spectacular scenery visiting such areas as Dusy basin, Le Conte Canyon, Muir Pass, Evolution valley, and Humphrey's Basin. My wife and I did the trek in June with our 9 month old in tow. As a backup, some soft-sided water bottles such as the Platypus will thread onto the filter and work just as well. Jackass Meadow and Ward Lake campgrounds are located near Florence Lake. Campsites: Good sites along Evolution Creek by Evolution Meadow, McClure Meadow and Colby Meadow. Many describe Evolution Valley as the most beautiful spot in Kings Canyon National Park. this trail is definitly one of the top 5 trails in sierras. We got there between 4:30-5 on a week day and there wasn't anyone available -- so we hitched and got a ride pretty easily. I drank a lot of water. Thunder some days. Spectacular scenery abounds, with tumbling waterfalls, flowing creeks, glittering lakes, stately forests, and imposing mountains galore. Or bag flattopped Mt. I want to hike West to East in the lowest part of the evolution valley, beginning at Edison Lake. Tracked 40 miles total and we caught the ferry on the way in and out. Evolution Creek had already joined forces and the river was much larger. Would recommend to anyone wanting to experience the High Sierras. What seemed like an irritating setback at the time, ended up giving us a chance to acclimate a bit before hauling ourselves, and 40 unaccustomed pounds, over Bishop Pass. Bishop and Muir Pass are still very snowy. The best hike of my life. I am now a retired academic, so I was able, in all three trips, to exploit my college timing to hike in early September before the start of classes. Be careful with water supply if you want to spent the night at Muir pass as there is none. Yay! My first suggestion is if you have seven days to make this trip, your body and spirit will thank you. On day 4 we headed east along Piute Canyon toward lovely Humphreys Basin, a timeless spot overlooking the Glacier Divide to which we have returned again and again. After 2.5 mile it crosses a bridge to the south side of the river where a good campsite is located. 110 Piute Pass Trail junction, 17 mi. Saw plenty of deer, and other hikers saw a few bears in the meadows. Soon the trail crossed Evolution Creek, which was quite large at this point. It was a fine pace, but sometimes I just wanted the extra time to really settle into the vistas. Pingback: Tahoe hiking: Bay View to Azure Lake. Im a layman, what can I say? Water was everywhere but crossings were Ok. Bugs were not a issue. The fourth day we packed back to the Florence lake JMT trail junction. Backpackers are really friendly and fun, so it was a good time. But we didnt see any rangers. Again, I will say that there is plenty of water the whole way, so drink up. A mother deer plus two babies. The lake is 53 miles east of Prather. Mostly True Stories of My Hiking Trips, a PhotoJournal. "All truth goes through three stages. I checked my GPS and discovered that I had hiked almost 15 miles today! A mother deer plus two babies. Or bag flattopped Mt. To win Best in Show our site sported a ledge, floating above a yakkety brook, Mt. Beautiful trip! September after Labor Day was a great time to make this trip, as the crowds had thinned but the mild climate lingered. Fork), from which you access Evolution Valley via Piute Creek down to the River, then back up the river and Evolution Creek to McClure Meadow and beyond; stated simply, from the pass this is a down-up. The traditional route goes over Piute Pass and down through Humphreys Basin, taking a long time before turning the corner and climbing up to Evolution Valley. At night, Id comb through maps by headlamp, creating my ultimate ticklist for the parks. Another 1.5 miles up the canyon is the turnoff to Evolution Valley. Finally, two ladies told me that there was a spot just ahead, right next to the creek! 7/19/2014 - 17.03 miles, 2,992 AEG - Piute Bridge to Evolution Creek The day started with a six mile roundtrip hike to Muir Trail Ranch to obtain our resupply. Though ruled by an evil mosquito king that keeps his troops busy, Big Pete Meadow (the meadow part should have been our clue) was a delight. It ended the same way that it started: With Waterfalls! Evolution Valley. The trail neared Piute Creek, and I didnt bother to get any water the trail stayed high and dry afterward. Was it this heavy yesterday? Generally considered a challenging route, it takes an average of 12 h 41 min to complete. Good campsites can be found there also. Mosquitos were bad, but not horrible. Mosquitoes burst forth in early and mid-summer, especially around the meadow areas near the Muir Trail Ranch and Evolution Valley. Day two Continue on Piute Pass to reach the JMT (and enter the national park) at mile 17.4. It was also one of the last areas explored by early park pioneers. Others seemed to have no issues on the regular crossing. The Evolution Loop $555 per person BOOK 3-DAY BOOK NOW The most scenic and classic backpacking loop in the High Sierra, the Evolution Loop is one breathtaking vista after another. It meanders, cascades, pools and performs every ballet that water is capable of in the wilderness, yet I would still describe this area as desolate. In August we did North lake to south lake direction which avoided the climb up to Bishop pass. Very scenic. Oh well. Jessie Wheeler. Evolution Valley - Key Facts Location: Northern Kings Canyon National Park Trailhead: Florence Lake, 84 miles east of Fresno, elevation 7,300 feet Evolution Valley elevation: 9,500 feet Elevation gain: 2200 feet Hiking Distance: 19 miles Best seasons: Mid-summer to fall Very exciting. Some hike this route from the other direction, north to south. The Morning Star Mine comprises a group of 18 claims, situated in Secs. We did encounter several groups of happy campers who had spent the previous night at some of these lakes. Day 2: Continue on Piute Pass to reach the JMT (and enter the national park). I set up my tent and got my gear situated inside. I decided to stop for lunch a short ways ahead, and hung out in the shade next to the water with a couple of PCT hikers that Id spoken to earlier. There must have been many more waterfalls on the way down, but, sadly, that wasnt part of my plan for the day. At mile 5.5 we crossed the river again and took a short break at the base of a long series of switchbacks that would bring us up to Evolution Valley. Didnt know you needed a reservation to drive through Yosemite, so consider going through Sonora Pass (unless you go through after 4pm). No more High Sierra tundra for me today! Western States Climbers Emblem Peaks Showing Kimberly Berg's first ascent dates for climbed peaks (0 out of 129, or 0%) Some of the travel is cross country but fairly easy to navigate. The stars up there were surreal. Elevation 4400 feet Ascending out of 5,400-foot Taboose Pass Trail Head in the Owens River Valley, the Goliath climbs steeply and starkly into a saw blade of 13,000- to 14,000-foot Central Sierra mountains. Diego, the 11-year-old Lab mix, was struggling; the family carried him part way. Did in 4.5 days south to north. Plenty of water along the trail and also plenty of places to camp. lots of water sources so no worries there but u must have enough water to go by as you will drink alot. The benefits of hiking, more than you can imagine! This trail goes by Loch Leven, Piute Pass, Summit Lake, Upper Golden Trout Lake, Lamarck Col, and North Lake Campground. But the point is we were beat! Maybe not bathing for three days has its advantages. Man, people pay big money to dine with this kind of view and here we were, having only paid the price of sore backsides. On my way between JMT and Piute there were 5+ stream crossings that necessitated wading. The Tyee Lakes part was not the most beautiful part and was pretty strenuous, but made transportation much easier. The trail condition is great, although it get pretty rocky around Muir Pass. We started at 8,200 feet and camped at 11,200 feet. The trail is popular with day hikers and backpackers on multi-day trips to Humphreys Basin, Evolution Valley and beyond. No smoke from the California wildfires. Reports of hail and lightning from others along the trail. Florence Lake, east of Fresno, is the most convenient trailhead for backpacking trips to Evolution Valley. Thousands upon thousands of happy people enjoying the wilderness. Trailhead to Piute Lake Distance from Trailhead: 7.0 miles (round trip) Speaking of water, we regularly forded streams ranging from little hip-hop creeks to put-on-your-water-shoes-and-unbuckle-your-pack soakers! Inside the hut, I swear I felt intensely connected with the energy of the many hikers who entered tired, cold and grateful. On day 1, take the Piute Pass Trail from North Lake Campground, and hike six miles gaining 2,000 feet to make camp near Upper Golden Trout Lake (no camping within 400 feet). The JMT headed off to the west before switchbacking its way down to the valley floor (700 feet of descent) while the creek simply dropped straight down over the side of the canyon. Moderate to the rim of the valley. Did this a decade ago and want to do it again! Also included are North Lake, South Lake, Piute Pass, Evolution Valley and Lake Sabrina. This famous combo-trail will be our path for the next 26.5 miles. Challenging but absolutely worth it, forever in my memories. Good thing bruins dont like whiskey. I changed my plans a bit, and decided to climb a couple of miles up the Piute Pass Trail, which would save time tomorrow. Wanda(sorry if mistaken) is full of mosquitos, prepare mesh covering for you face. I also crossed Evolution creek at the alternate, which was swampy but looked much easier than the main crossing. Get full access to Outside Learn, our online education hub featuring in-depth fitness, nutrition, and adventure courses and more than 2,000 instructional videos when you sign up for Outside+ The creek crossing there can be challenging early in the season. It all worked out in the end, however. I sucked the last of my water from the hose and hiked on, filled with new energy. Many thanks to her for this great post and pictures! Permits issued from the White . Not only that, but the trail was going to head even lower as I followed the river downstream. It was challenging but not impossible if you hike often. straightforward trail. After 2.5 mile it crosses a bridge to the south side of the river where a good campsite is located. I hiked along this stretch of river for almost three miles, and sweated profusely the entire time. . As I hiked along, I met several PCT Through-Hikers heading north. After descending into the valley, I noticed how hot it was. I've done this trail 4 times and it is amasing. The lowest lakes in Dusy and Evolution basin are mostly thawed. Wished we could have camped at Evolution Lake as it's sooooo beautiful but it didn't work out for us. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Your email address will not be published. contour 80 feet UTM zone 11 Customers Like You Also Purchased USA Highways Wall Map $10.95 Custom Radius Maps $175.00 Island Visions $39.99 Rides of a Lifetime: Southwest by MAD Maps $16.95 Perfect! I had heard from many thru hikers that Evolution Valley was the absolute best. And it felt like it. Turn left and cross the South Fork San Joaquin River. We had perfect weather, saw some incredible scenery and wildlife, and had an overall fantastic time! One bite of the Evolution area is liable to infect any passerby, causing even the most mileage-minded thru-hike If the John Muir Trail is the crown jewel of the Pacific Crest Trail, then the Evolution Basin and Valley are perhaps the most strikingly-sculpted gem to be carefully placed in that jewel. Leisurely pace over 6 days / 7 nights, This was an amazing hike! I sat down on a boulder near my gear and got out some snack. We did the alternate Evolution creek crossing this time and it was easy, water just above my knees (Im 411). We decided to put in stakes about a mile and a half before Piute Pass on what I considered to be the Best in Show campsite winner. Having driven by this part of the Sierras countless times on Hwy 395, gazing at that saw-toothed range, I always wanted to be the Norman Clyde, the John Muir, the Clarence King who had the privilege of a first ascent or true solitary immersion. Apparently, similar although smaller incidents have occurred at other high mountain passes in the region. It was uphill all the way, and there was occasional shade, as I had hoped, so I didnt get heat stroke or anything. 11/10/2022 - Expect winter conditions. Completed 14-17AUG. We parked 3mi down from the trailhead in the overnight parking and caught a ride in the construction workers truck bed (thank you!). I would love to do it sometime, so thank you for the inspiration. We returned to camp and reorganized and then started the hike into Evolution Valley. From there, you head back west and up up up to Evolution Valley and then Evolution Basin - finally topping out at the summit of Muir Pass. Once over Bishop Pass, we descended down approximately 5-6 miles to South Lake where we ended our journey. I climbed down off my hilltop aerie and walked along the southern shore of Evolution Lake. The canister is a whole lotta bulky but is worth its weight should a bruin decide hed like some chocolate with his berries. Piute Pass 01:05:00 Hutchinson Meadow 02:18:02 Piute Canyon/JMT Junction 3:13:44 Goddard Canyon Junction 3:50:59 McClure Meadow Ranger . My girlfriends told me I started singing gospel at that point, but I really think they may be exaggerating. The other entrance is by way of North Lake going over Piute Pass (11,500') and passing through Humphries Basin and Piute Canyon. It was gorgeous. That night we enjoyed a campfire in Aspen Meadow since we were below 10,000 feet and there were already the makings for a fire ready to go! Bridge at JMT junction Stream crossing below Goddard Canyon turnoff Bridge below Goddard Canyon Back across Goddard Canyon Log crossing below Evolution Meadow View up Evolution Valley Gould, Mendel, and Darwin Darwin to Huxley, the Evo traverse crux Evolution lake is awesome. Quite a few creek crossings which were hard to avoid getting feet wet, but easily done. Ascending Muir Pass from south to north was incredible. First it is ridiculed. The Bishop Group is accessible from the South Lake Trailhead, either to Treasure Lakes, or Bishop Pass. Moderate. We slept in our vehicle at the trailhead the night before starting. Many hikers enjoy the week-long loop from North Lake, around through Evolution Valley, over Muir Pass, and eventually heading out over Bishop Pass to South Lake. The rivers and meadows are stunning. Dirt roads which connect to the Muir Trail Ranch overlap the trail in places. There was no bridge. When Leor Pantilat's FKT for the Evolution "loop" came up in my news feed, I skimmed it and moved on, having other things on my mind. Then continue up the valley to McClure Meadow. In between two crossings of the Sierra backbone at Muir Pass and Piute Pass, we'll visit beautiful and famous Evolution Valley. Lots of camping spots with water so you can make your day as long or short as you like. But the views from the trail made up for it. Hike down 6.6 miles to LeConte Canyon, which is a very beautiful, deep canyon with lush meadows and forests. Reach a footbridge over Jeffrey pine-lined Piute Creek, and camp on designated pads nearby. Do I really get to be here? My AllTrails recording showed 59.4 miles at the termination point (South Lake overnight parking lot) with over 10,000' elevation gain. Pat was the captain of the ferry and Charlie ran the little store, nice couple. Backpacking Has Changed a Lot Over the Past 50 Years. Highly recommend bringing a bug net to wear if you think you will encounter them. Piute Creek You then head south on the JMT, along the river until you reach the junction with the Goddard Canyon Trail. The log cabin is located on the right side of the trail as you hike south a short distance before the Piute Creek bridge. Camp at Wanda Lake along the trail to Muir Pass; no campsites after first quarter mile (night 3). To avoid the risk of getting sick, most Sierra backpackers filter or treat their drinking water. What a sight! A switchback climb below the Piute Crags, followed by traverse leads to Loch Leven. Didnt posthole, it was sunny and we summited at 10:30am from a 5:30am start (slower pace), stayed for an hour at the hut and headed down towards Evolution Lake to camp. First, it was a suggestion, and then it was an item on my Someday List. Mosquitoes were everywhere but easily controlled with DEET and an (optional) headnet. A boat-taxi across the lake is available from the trailhead in the summer. There are several decent camping spots in the meadow and they are all next to heavy-flowing Piute Creek. Bugs werent that bad. I told them to skip Oregon, because it sounded mostly like boring forest with no views, and a hiker named Strawberry told me that there was a thing called Oregon in Two Weeks which skips the lame parts. You can learn more about her travels with her husband, Mitch, on CruisingSailors.com. Did South to North lake. The trail leads through Double and Blayney meadows. My [growing] Collection of Top Utah Hiking Trails, Five ways to make enemies at a public campground, Seeking Powder Hounds: Heli-Skiing the Northwest. Beautiful and challenging in a good way. I felt a whining session coming on, Pleeeeese dont make me leave. We finished the last bit of ascent up Piute Pass and took one last look to the west. She was seriously considering it. We found several amazing campsites just off the east side of the trail that held us warm and protected from the wind. The Evolution Loop is a magnificent route through some of the most inspiring terrain in the High Sierra. Building anything out here must be quite the challenge. however, if you are an average backpacker like me, expect some brutal acents and decents. We hiked this trail June 5th to the 7th. From there we pass through the giant cirque of Humphreys Basin, and into Hutchinson Meadow, and Piute Canyon. Enjoy! This was the most difficult day as we ascended over 3200 with 30+ & 40+ lb packs. Loitering encouraged! We camped up there on our second night. Since we stopped for lunch here and the lake has no name I guess Ill call it Lunch Lake. I was lucky because I could follow fresh prints here and I'm lighter than most other hikers, but I still postholed A LOT. The air seemed to be getting a bit cooler, so I packed up my stuff and headed out. Roundtrip mileage to the McClure Meadow Ranger Station from the south end of Florence Lake is about 15.5 miles and 1500 feet of elevation gain. It tasted cold and fresh. Cottonwood to Onion Valley: Onion Valley to Bishop Pass: Evolution Loop: July 28-August 4. The Sierra Peaks Section was established in 1955. Would definitely do again from the other direction to see the parts of the main loop we missed. There wasnt going to be much of a sunset from down in the canyon, so I went to bed early. That pond is the same pond I had lunch at last year descending from Bishop Pass into Le Conte Canyon. Good campsites can be found along the river beyond the Piute Creek bridge. It was high noon, I realized, and there wasnt any shade at all on the trail with the sun beaming straight down between the trees. My understanding is that dogs are not allowed in the Kings Canyon National Park. We camped alone; in fact, we camped alone every night of the trip. The contradiction lies in the amount of water all around. Mendel, which is part of the Evolution range. There were several wet crossings during the first three or four miles. Up until Sep 11th there was a shuttle service that we could have used to get from South Lake to the North Lake trailhead -- running a couple of times a day and costing $20. The information provided on this website is done so without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. I said a silent thank you before dropping over the top, then apologized to my knees for the steep, descending switch backs they were about to receive. We hiked through Evolution Meadow and decided to stay a few miles away near the McClure Meadow Ranger Station (closed due to Covid-19). The information provided on this website is done so without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. The McClure Meadow is one of the most beautiful meadows I have ever seen! The river and steam crossings were simple because the water level is so low at this point in the season. Leave the JMT, and follow the drainage up to Darwin Canyon. Well, yeah, maybe then. Front Runners List: Click to see list completion progress by climbers that log their climbs using Peakbagger.com. Day 2 Evolution Valley 17.18 2977 AEG Emptied our packs and hiked down to the Muir Trail Ranch to pick our resupply. FIND YOUR WAY OUTSIDE is a trademark of AllTrails, LLC. But the Reader Leader contest was all it took to get me planning again. The uphill miles to reach John Muir Pass gave quite a different landscape than we had seen so far. North to South Lake is the easiest way to go with passes not too difficult. Grand views of the high sierra. The map shown above is for illustrative purposes only. Me either, until we exited the forest at about 11,000 feet and monster granite views appeared. I think this might be a great time to interject that finding water was never, ever a problem. Although the trail from the head of Florence Lake to Evolution Valley climbs over 2,000 feet, most of the elevation gain comes during the last miles. Located in California's beautiful eastern Sierra Nevada Mountains, Inyo National Forest offers challenging trails, high mountain peaks, and unparalleled views. The hike isn't strenuous, and even the switchbacks didn't feel that bad. Rattlesnakes are always possible; but with the popularity of the trail, rattlesnakes are rarely seen. . Now I can say, beeen there in a sing-song tone suggesting my best time ever in the land of granite. Allow extra driving time to Florence Lake. Pick up the trail on the eastern edge of Upper Lamarck Lake. Day 4: Rest and explore. I was breathing so hard I started to suspect my companions might have embraced some trail humor and stashed their heavy items in my pack when I wasnt looking. Day four Rest and explore. At the top was Evolution Valleyas a wannabe biologist, I fell in love with the name. I only had about a liter left of the three Id started with that morning. I could see both up and down the canyon, and there was no shortage of glaciated granite in evidence. It was a smooth and quick process. Turn left and descend to Upper Lamarck Lake. The trail on the left leads to Lower Honeymoon Lake. The climb up to Piute Pass was uneventful, passing a series of lakes on the way to the day's high point. We remained on the JMT at the Goddard Canyon junction and continued up a series of switchbacks that led us to a stream crossing where we had to take off our hiking boots & put on our water shoes and continue towards Evolution Valley. Following the PCT southward another 4 miles will bring you to Evolution Meadow. Either way takes you over 3 high mountain passes and through incredibly beautiful terrain throughout. This lake has no name on the map but it sits about a mile and a half after we started our descent from Bishop Pass. 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